I paddled out into the deep blue where the waves curled and white water hurled. Waiting for a wave, i settled on the tail of my board on the look out for a good wave. A few meters away, as the wave started to build up, so did my excitement.
When it was just a few feet away, i started to paddle,paddle hard. The adrenaline rushed all over me. From the second i pushed myself up from the board down to when i was gliding, side by side with the wave, it was just pure bliss.
I paddled out again,but this time I was in no rush for it was THE moment. The moment when the sky's colours were a spectacle of melted shades of orange, blue,red and vi